Cooking Hints and Tips
Herbs And Spices
If herbs are a shortage, or you have to buy a whole bundle when you only want a small amount, use what you require for recipe then wash and place the remaining in water and freeze as ice blocks. Then when required all you have to do is thaw out required amount. To revive wilted parsley or dill, place in cold water for 10 to 15 minutes. For more flavor, crush dried herbs between your fingers before adding them to a dish. When freezing fresh herbs or things like cut up green peppers or corn add a little oil (olive oil is good) to the plastic freezing bag and mix well. The oil helps keep the spices fresh and foodstuffs frozen this way separate very easily when you wish to use some. No more huge chunk of ice to try and break up. Snip chives and fresh dill or parsley onto fish, baked potatoes or new potatoes. Snip chives and tarragon into scrambled eggs. Press sage or rosemary onto fresh pork chops and then grill. Snip fresh dill or mint over thinly sliced cucumber and add balsamic or rice wine vinegar. Combine fresh herbs for a new taste like parsley and chive, rosemary and garlic or basil and oregano. Use herbs with your bar-b-q. Toss a few on the coals or in a smoker box to produce a fragrant smoke or use a few sprigs as a brush for brushing on your marinade for a delicate flavor. Always start with a little and adding in small bits until you get the desired taste. Don't ruin a dish by overloading it with herbs, you can always add more. Chives are available fresh, minced, dried or frozen. Choose fresh chives that have a deep green color and sturdy leaves with no bruised places. Avoid chives that are wilted. It is easy to prepare chives to use as a garnish. Simply snip the leaves into tiny pieces with scissors or cut with a knife. After cutting, chives may turn bitter, so garnish just before serving. Always use chives raw, since cooking diminishes the flavor. Tips for selection and storage: Choose fresh herbs that have very green leaves. Avoid those with discoloration or bruising. Avoid herbs that are limp or that are flowering. Use herbs as soon as possible after purchase. Filling spice jars with a funnel isn't always successful, since ground spices aren't really very free-flowing. Use a piece of typing paper rolled into a cone instead. It makes a much better funnel, and, if things hang up, can be worked a bit to get the clog out. After cutting sprigs from mint plants, store them in a glass of water on the kitchen counter for two or three days, or cover them with plastic wrap and store them in the refrigerator for as long as a week. Sometimes sprigs will even root in the water. For a consistent measurement, gently pack chopped mint or leaves into a cup or press them into a tablespoon. Some of the fresh mint flavor is lost during cooking, so if you're making a mint pesto for stuffing a lamb roast, for example, you'll need more than you would to flavor a dill and mint cucumber salad. Add dried herbs toward the beginning of the cooking time, and add fresh herbs toward the end. Fresh vegetables require little seasoning or cooking. If the vegetable is old, dress it up with sauces or seasonings. When using leaf herbs (basil, thyme), crush them between your fingers or with a mortar and pestle before adding. Store herbs and spices in airtight containers away from light, heat and moisture (not near the stove!). Replace herbs when they lose their color and aroma, or at least once a year. When substituting, start with about half the amount called for and add more to taste. If a dish lacks flavor, try adding a little mustard, hot pepper sauce, or Worcestershire sauce. An herb or spice such as curry powder can help too. Toasting spices bring out their flavors. Try doing that before you add them to your favorite recipes. Spices can be toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until they release their aromas -- about 30 seconds -- or they can be sauteed in a small amount of oil for 20 or 30 seconds. Sesame seeds gain wonderful nut-like flavor when toasted. Just sprinkle a thin layer of seeds in a skillet and shake or stir over low heat until they are a toasty golden color. To have fresh herbs in the winter months, tear off leaves and place in ice cub trays with water. After water freezes totally, remove cubes, place in plastic bags and freeze. Use in soups, stews, and sauces. Why are chile peppers hot? The heat is generated by a substance in the interior ribs or strings of the chiles, rather than in the seeds. Since the seeds are in such proximity with the veins, they carry the essence of hotness. In general, the smaller the pepper, the more potent its "bite". Peppers which are harvested have often reached their maximum degree of hotness; peppers left on the vine to dry become somewhat sweeter, rather than hotter. If you prefer chile dishes with more zing, don't seed the chile before chopping it. The seeds and membranes can contain up to 80% of the chile's capsaicin, the compound which makes chiles hot. If you want the taste of jalapeņo, but don't want the heat, there are at least two alternatives: Several years ago Texas A&M developed a jalapeņo pepper that is quite a bit lower in the "heat" scale. They are called TAM jalapeņo. False Alarm Jalapenos are supposed to have all of the flavor with none of the heat. The TAM are a bit warm, but not like a full jalapeno. The False Alarm are supposed to be heatless (not hot at all). Soaking And Pureeing Dried Chiles: Enhance the flavor of the puree a little by soaking the peppers in chicken or beef stock rather than water. If you're making a sauce for chicken enchiladas, then use chicken stock. Beef stock is good for beef dishes. There's not much to it. Just put the dried chiles in a bowl with enough hot water to cover them. Put a saucer or an upside down coffee mug on top to keep the peppers submerged. Leave them there until they are soft. It usually takes from 15-30 minutes. Chipotles are very hard and tend to take longer. You can speed up the process by simmering them gently in water on the stovetop. If you're making stuffed peppers, be sure to take the chiles out of the water before they get too soft to stuff. If you're making a chile puree, you want the peppers very soft, so you can leave them in the water a little longer. When they are soft enough pull the stems off and scoop out the seeds. Put the flesh in the blender with enough of the soaking water to get the blades turning. Puree until smooth. Chile peppers vary in size, so you'll have to estimate how much puree you'll get by checking the size of the peppers. Anchos yield the most puree, guajillos and other shiny-skinned peppers yield very little. When selecting peppers to make a puree, use the softest, most pliable ones available.
When buying garlic look for large, plump, firm bulbs; older shriveled garlic can be disagreeably strong. Store garlic at room temperature in a ventilated container. To mince garlic, use the flat edge of chef's knife, smash down on garlic clove to loosen skin. Remove skin. Next, cut peeled garlic clove into thin slices. Then, using chef's knife and holding down tip end, cut back and forth across garlic. The way you prepare garlic makes a difference in the final flavor of a dish. Experts know that slices of garlic added to a stew or a stir-fry impart a mellower flavor than crushed garlic. It comes down to how many of the clove's cell walls are ruptured, releasing enzymes that lead to garlic's kick. Here is a rundown of the forms of garlic, listed from the mildest to the strongest flavors: Whole head (roasted) Whole cloves Slivered Sliced Chopped Minced by hand Minced in food processor Crushed in garlic press To mince fresh ginger, pound the peeled ginger with the back of a knife blade until the pulp separates, leaving the threads behind. Then mince as any vegetable. To store gingerroot cut it up and place it in a small jar. Fill the jar with dry sherry or wine and refrigerate it, covered, for up to 3 months. The easiest way to store fresh ginger, once you've peeled it and used a slice, is to wrap it tightly in plastic wrap or a zipper-type plastic bag and store it in the freezer. It will keep for a really long time, and you can grate what you need from the frozen ginger and then return it to the freezer for more storage. It's a lot easier to grate frozen ginger too, and it tastes just as good. Gingerroot is a tan, gnarly root with flesh that ranges in color from pale greenish yellow to ivory. The tough skin which protects the moist interior and prolongs its storage life is peeled away, and the moist flesh is grated for use in recipes. Use a tablespoon to remove the skin from fresh ginger. Scrape the spoon down the length of the ginger and the skin will come off easily. Wrap fresh herbs in a damp paper towel, then in plastic, and refrigerate. They'll keep a week. Dried herbs and spices will keep for months when they're tightly covered and stored in a cool, dry place. According to McCormick's, if herbs are stored away from heat, moisture and light in airtight containers: Ground spices last 1-3 years Whole spices last 4 years Green leafy herbs last 1-3 years Seeds last 3-4 years Extracts last 4 years Spices in the pepper family, like paprika and chili powder should be refrigerated "to help retain color and guard against infestation." Properly stored, dried herbs keep their flavors for about a year. To tell if an herb is still in its prime, smell it. Keep a bunch of fresh herbs in the refrigerator so you can snip some for garnishing dishes. A Bouquet Garni is a small herb bouquet, most often sprigs of fresh parsley and thyme, plus a bay leaf, tied in cheesecloth. It is dropped into stocks, stews, sauces, and soups as a seasoner and is removed before serving. Fines Herbes is a mixture of minced parsley, chervil, tarragon, and sometimes chives, in equal amounts, used to season salads, omelets, and other dishes. When using fresh herbs such as dill, chives, parsley, etc., hold them together in small bunches and snip with kitchen scissors. It is a lot faster this way, and you'll find the herbs will be light and fluffy, not bruised and wet as they often get when chopped. Unless you plan to use a jar of dried herbs within a short time, it is best to buy the leaf or unpowdered herbs for good keeping quality. Store dried, leaf, and powdered herbs in a dark place in the kitchen where it isn't hot to keep them fresh as long as possible. When substituting dried herbs for fresh, use 1/3 less, since dried herbs have a more concentrated flavor than fresh. If you wish to use fresh herbs in a recipe that calls for dried ones, simply use 3 teaspoons of fresh for every one teaspoon of dried in the recipe. To store fresh herbs, place two to three layers of paper towels in a zipper-style plastic bag. Place short-stemmed fresh herbs such as sage, basil or thyme inside bag and zip closed. Place plastic bag containing herbs in the refrigerator. To get the most flavor from your dried herbs crush them between your fingers before adding them to a dish. Next time your chili or dish is too spicy, add honey to help tame the flavor. You won't notice the sweetness, but it will enhance the flavor. If you're using an herb for the first time, start out with 1 teaspoon of fresh herb or 1/4 teaspoon of dried herb for every 4 servings. Taste, then add more--a little at a time--until the flavor's just right. After measuring dried herbs, crumble them in your hand to release their flavor before adding to your recipe. The conventional ratio for substituting fresh herbs for dried herbs is to use 3 times as much fresh as dried. So for example, use 1 tablespoon fresh when a recipe calls for 1 teaspoon dried. Herbs range in flavor from delicate and sweet to strong and savory. Sometimes just a little bit goes a long way, especially with bolder herbs such as rosemary and oregano. Snip herbs with your kitchen scissors for a simple yet impressive garnish. To chop herbs, place the leaves in a glass measuring cup or small bowl and cut them into tiny pieces with kitchen shears, using short, quick strokes. To chop parsley and other fresh herbs, use a chef's knife and hold down the tip end while you cut back and forth across whole parsley sprigs. Also use this method for chopping other fresh herbs such as cilantro, basil, or sage. Whole spices stay fresh about 2 years while ground ones usually only last about 6 months. You should refrigerate red spices, such as paprika, to preserve their flavor and color. Keep ground ginger, chili powder, and paprika in the refrigerator. Once opened, these spices loose their flavor quickly. Curry powder is a blend of spices. The most commonly used are cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, fennel, nutmeg, turmeric, and chile. This strongly flavored seasoning loses its potency quickly, so store it in an airtight container. The chile powders sold in most stores contain other spices and are often so dried out that the powder yields little flavor. They also tend to give sauces and chili con carne a gritty texture. You are much better off making chile powders at home in an electric coffee grinder. This also allows you to use such flavorful peppers as chipotles and guajillos for your powders. Select brittle dried for this purpose, or put pliant dried peppers into an oven set at 350 degrees for 10 minutes to dry them out. Clean all the coffee out of the grinder. Stem and seed the pepper and cut it into pieces small enough to fit easily into the grinder. Grind the pepper for a minute or so until it yields a fine powder. Remember to clean the pepper out of the grinder or you'll have some very interesting coffee tomorrow. Allspice has a strong flavor and tastes like a blend of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. It is sold whole as dried berries or ground. Cilantro is hard to keep fresh, but if you are careful you can keep it for up to a week before it loses its flavor. Wrap it in paper towels, place into a sealed plastic bag, and store it in the refrigerator, making sure to seal the bag tight after each use. The seeds of the cilantro plant are called coriander. Coriander has a bold flavor, reminiscent of sage, citrus, and caraway. Coriander seeds are from the cilantro plant. Curry powder is a blend of spices such as turmeric, fenugreek, cumin, coriander, ginger, and ground hot pepper. Epazote, also known as Mexican tea, wormseed, stink weed, skunkweed, sweet pigweed, Jerusalem parsley, hedge mustard and goosefoot. The pungent wild herb (Chenopodium ambrosioides) has flat, pointed leaves and can be grown in North American gardens. Unfortunately, U.S. gardeners usually consider epazote a pesky weed. The herb, described as smelling similar to kerosene, camphor or turpentine by some people, is popular in many bean dishes because it reduces intestinal gas, and it is brewed for tea. There is no substitute ingredient for its flavor, but it can be omitted from a recipe if it is unavailable. The herb was used by the Aztecs for medicinal purposes and is poisonous in large doses. Fennel has a flavor similar to anise or licorice but milder. It is sold as seed, whole, or ground. Cinnamon is a warm, sweet, pungent spice that is actually a tree bark. It is sold as rolled dried sticks or ground. Most ground cinnamon is really cassia (which is a member of the same family as true cinnamon, but has a stronger flavor) or a combination of cinnamon and cassia. Both cinnamon and cassia are harvested from the bark of a plant in the laurel family. The outer layer of the bark is removed, and the inner bark curls up as it dries. To keep costly "red" spices like cayenne pepper and paprika fresher longer, store them in the refrigerator. Rub a little lemon juice on your fingers to neutralize garlic aroma, then rinse and wash with soap and water. When making a recipe that has both fresh garlic and ginger in it, work with the garlic first then the ginger. The ginger will remove the garlic smell from hands, knives, and cutting boards. When finely chopping a small amount of parsley on a board or food processor, you will often find the parsley clumps and cannot be sprinkled freely. To prevent this, put the chopped parsley in a clean towel, then twist to squeeze out the liquid. Borage (Borago officinalis): Both the leaves and flowers of Borage have a cucumber-like flavor and are often added to salads. The flowers also are floated in drinks and punch bowls, and may be candied for use on cakes, ice cream and other desserts. When mature, this decorative hardy annual has coarse, hairy leaves and blue or purple star-shaped flowers that appear in drooping clusters from early summer until frost. Borage grows 2-3 feet tall. Use Borage leaves with caution; large amounts may be toxic. Borage prefers a spot in full sun or light shade in dry, average to poor soil. Start seeds directly in the garden in fall or early spring, or buy plants and set them 12" apart in early spring to mid-spring. Pinch the plants when they are 6" tall to encourage bushiness. Plants may become spindly by midsummer; cut them back by half, and they will produce new leaves and flowers. Pick the flowers as they open and remove the inedible hairy sepals. Harvest only young, tender, hairless leaves and use sparingly. To keep basil fresh for several days. Wrap in slightly damp paper towels and refrigerate in a plastic bag up to 4 days. Or place basil, stems down, in a glass of water and cover leaves with a plastic bag. Refrigerate up to 7 days; changing the water every couple of days. Holy Basil (Ocimum sanctum) is known in Thailand as bal kaprow. This basil has thin, reddish-green leaves and a very distinct flavour. If not available, use sweet basil together with a little fresh mint. Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum): Large, fleshy leaves, particularly popular in Italian dishes such as pesto. Sweet basil combines well with tomatoes. To preserve the purple or bright green colour of the leaves, do not chop with a knife, but tear by hand. Use leaves only. Mahlab is the dried and ground seeds from the pit of the sour cherry. Mahlab is used extensively in Greek, Armenian, and Turkish sweet beads, similar to the Italian use of anise or the Swedish use of cardamom. It is used sparingly since it is supposed to be a flavor enhancement rather than a dominating or pronounced flavor in the baked good. You will see variations of spelling. In Turkish, it is "mahlab"; in Greek, it is "mahleb" or its familiar term, "mahleppi"; in Armenian, it is "mahleb." It is used very sparingly in egg-type or sweet breads. Among black peppers, Tillicherry is the most intensely hot black pepper and very flavorful. White pepper is black pepper with the outer shell removed. It is more pungent than black pepper and slightly bitter. Use it sparingly for a pleasant heat. Green peppercorns - the best come in a brine-filled jar -- are unripened black peppercorns. Their fresh, tart, subtle heat works well in cream sauces. Pink peppercorns are not pepper at all; they are a berry from a tropical bush. they are only available dried. The texture is hard and brittle and the flavor has an odd perfuminess. Fenugreek -- used alone fenugreek has a metallic taste, but when combined with other spices, it gives a very full and zesty flavor. For a great fresh-tasting curry powder, roast fenugreek, coriander, cumin, peppercorns, a little cinnamon and cloves in a skillet. Then pulverize the mixture in a spice grinder. Sage is used for everything from snakebite cures to tonic, and was considered a cure-all throughout the Middle Ages. There are many traditional uses for sage: it is used widely for stuffings, seasoning rich and fatty meats such as sausage, duck and veal. Fresh sage is wonderful: be aware that the flavoring strengthens when dried, so adjust amounts accordingly. Choose fresh-looking sprigs. Avoid wilted or brown spots. Use fresh sage as soon as possible, but if you need to store it, seal sprigs in a plastic bg and store in the refrigerator for a few days. Rinse sage sprigs in water, then pat thoroughly with paper towels. Snip the leaves from the stems and chop them to use. Or use whole leaves as garnishes or thread them between vegetables and meat on kebabs. Deep-fried sage leaves are a marvelous touch to dishes. Saffron is a VERY expensive seasoning. That is because it comes from the dried stigma of a species of crocus (or is that croci?), it must be hand-picked, AND it takes nearly a quarter of a million of them to make up a pound in weight! Saffron has been used since ancient times, particularly for giving its yellow color and delicate warm-bitter flavor to cakes and pastries (hot-cross buns are a lineal descendant of saffron cakes used as votive offerings by the Phonenicians). The Romans used it, but do not seem to have introduced it to Britain to any extent; in fact, it was not until the 14th century that it began to be used frequently there (but only for the rich, because it then cost as much as 15 shillings a pound...) At that time, most saffron was imported, but in the later Middle Ages, saffron plantations were established in Cambridgeshire and Essex (Saffron Walden takes its name from the local saffron industry). These days, saffron's leading role is as a coloring and flavoring ingredient in bouillabaisse, paella, risotto and Indian dishes. (And since the cost is so high, turmeric is sometimes substituted, but only for these dishes and not in breads, pastries etc.) The word saffron comes from a Middle Eastern or Arabic language, but its exact source has never been pinpointed. The furthest back in history we can trace is to the Arabic sa'faran, which found its way to English via medieval Latin safranum and Old French safran. Its use as a color term -- "orange-yellow", dates from the late 14th century!
What does it mean to "salt to taste" when cooking chicken? You certainly don't want to taste raw chicken! Or meat or fish, for that matter. It's more directed to cooks with slightly more experience...you get a feel for these things, as you surely know. For those who are not familiar with this technique, a general rule of thumb would be 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of salt for a recipe that serves 4. And if one is on a salt-restricted regimen, reduce it to 1/4 teaspoon or less...or even eliminate added salt. If other salty ingredients are included in the recipe, such as soy sauce, teriyaki sauce, or anchovies, one needs to take this into account by reducing the amount of salt added. Another rule of thumb...when in doubt, under salt the food...you can always add more after tasting the finished product, but you can't take it out once it's there. In place of salt, use fresh herbs for seasonings, such as ginger, garlic, onions and spices. Avoid over-cooking, especially when you are stewing or boiling, and do not prick meat or fish. This will release the natural salts in them and you may have the tendency to add more salt to compensate. It's best to taste any food before adding salt to it. Chances are that you will find it salty already. Toast whole spices in a skillet over medium heat, then crush them with a mortar and pestle. Smell the aromatic difference between toasted and bottled spices. (You'll throw away those bottles and never go back to them again!) The degree of toasting impacts flavor; the more one toasts, the smokier the flavor. Use a clean coffee grinder to turn freshly toasted spices into powders of desired texture. Clean the grinder with soap and a damp cloth. Combine toasted, crushed spices -- such as cumin, mustard seeds and cardamom seeds -- with a bit of olive oil and salt for a rub that transforms meats, poultry and fish. To toast is to heat spices in a dry frying pan; to temper is to heat spices in oil in a frying pan. There are sweet and savory spices. Sweet spices include cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. Savory spices include cumin, fennugreek and turmeric. In-between spices are fennel and mustard. Turmeric: (TER-muh-rihk): Used in cooking since 600 B.C., turmeric is the root of a tropical plant related to ginger. Though native to the Orient, this spice is now also cultivated in India and the Caribbean. It has a bitter, pungent flavor. In Biblical times, it was used to make perfume. Today, it is mainly used to add flavor and color. It is very popular in East Indian cooking and almost always used in curry preparations. Turmeric is also the primary ingredient in mustard. It's what gives American-style prepared mustard its bright color. Powdered turmeric is widely available in supermarkets. Paprika is the colorful garnish and seasoning made from dried, ground capsicum peppers which can range from mild bell peppers to feisty little chiles. Most commercial paprika comes from Spain, South America, California and Hungary. Although Hungary is a highly regarded source, Spain produces more than half of the paprika imported into the United States. There are three main types of Spanish paprika:
Paprika's color is instantly visible, but its full flavor comes out when it is cooked. Paprika is famous as a mainstay of the cuisine of Hungary, as a flavoring, not only as a garnish. It's an essential ingredient in Spanish cooking, too, used to give both color and flavor to potato, rice and fish dishes. It also goes into salad dressings, sauces and sofrito; is used as a garnish sprinkled on meats, in egg or potato omelets; is added to soups and stews, and is used in marinades for fish, poultry or meat. The hotter varieties are often used in cured meats and sausages such as chorizos and in pork and game dishes. For full flavor and aroma, saute paprika in olive oil or cook it slowly in stews. To avoid a bitter taste, take care not to overheat it. Paprika can be stored in a cool, dry place for about six months. To cool your taste buds when eating spicy foods, reach for dairy products, not water. If you like black licorice, you'll love Anise. The seeds of this annual, ferny herb provide a sweetness that allows for sugar cutbacks when used in cake, cookie, and bread recipes. When grown fresh, Anise leaves and seeds add interest and flavor to salads. Also delicious (fresh, frozen, or dried) when sprinkled over chicken, fish, and vegetables, Anise is touted to aid in digestion. The oil extracted from Anise seeds and leaves can transform apple juice. Simply add 1/2 tsp. Anise extract and 1 cinnamon stick to a quart of apple juice and simmer for 30 minutes. Create unique sugar cookies by adding 1-1/2 to 2 tsp. extract to recipes yielding about 4 dozen treats. Sprinkle crushed or whole Anise seeds into apple or peach pies, cored-out apples before baking (3/4 tsp. per 6 apples), and over fruit salads. Give stewed fruit a lift, perk up sweet pickles, and charm cheese, appetizers, and salad dressings with a dash of seeds too. The flavor of rosemary hints at lemon and pine. Look for sprigs of rosemary that are fresh and show no signs of drying out. The leaves should feel velvety. Store in a plastic bg in the refrigerator, rosemary will last about a week. Rinse the rosemary and pat dry. Chop to desired size, or whole sprigs may be used in soups, stews or other dishes. Remove sprigs before serving. Springs also can be placed in the cavities of chicken or fish before cooking for a lovely flavor. Sage commonly flavors pork, veal -- osso buco, for example -- chicken and turkey. Sage brings character to soups, such as minestrone and fagioli. It combines well with butter to highlight pasta, is used on antipasti platters, and decorates cheese pizzas. There are more than 80 species and 750 varieties of sage, which imparts a slightly bitter, woodsy, mintlike flavor that complements fatty meats. Sage also acts as a digestive for such fatty dishes. Sage's medicinal properties were part of the reason for its popularity among the English. It was associated with wisdom. Home cooks should use sage according to the meaning of its name, wisely and judiciously. A little goes a long way, and fresh is best. Sage has a very short shelf life. Use it quickly, or it will become bitter and smell musty, even in a matter of a few days. Buy fresh sage and freeze the leaves. To do so, lay clean and dried whole sage leaves on pieces of aluminum foil and brush them with olive oil. Place the foil in the freezer. When the sage is frozen, store the foil in freezer bags or containers and peel off the leaves as needed. This way the sage stays soft. Sage complements meats -- particularly pork and poultry -- but also lends itself well to a range of vegetable, fish and cheese dishes. It marries well with onion. Sage combines well with rosemary and thyme, especially with roast poultry. Its flavor is not diminished during a long cooking time, which makes it suitable for soups or stews made during cold weather. Stir minced sage into warm applesauce and serve with grilled pork chops. Herbs and flavors that work well with sage include thyme, rosemary, bergamot, geranium, ginger, lavender, orange and peppermint. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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